Six bistro addresses tested by Gilles Pudlowski, a gourmet with a confident palate

Who isn’t looking for a good bistro address? Paris is the world capital of this style of restaurant: “An atmosphere, a boss who groans, chats and tells his life story”but also “dishes of the day, […] thirst-quenching wines, […] cheerfulness, animation […] and crushes”as written by Gilles Pudlowski, author of Petit Pudlo des Bistros 2022.

Balzac has long been attributed the saying that “the counter of a café is the parliament of the people”, when he wrote this about cabarets. Nevertheless, the diverted formula retains its basis of truth.

To Lyonnais

From Lyon, Marie-Victoria Manoa traveled around the world before returning to the specialties of her city: cervelle de canut (garlic white cheese), sabodet (pig sausage), flat bread with lentils and shallots in vinegar, grilled pig’s trotters and ears and artichokes in verjuice, French snail escargot, chard with parsley, herb and walnut salad, hot Chartreuse soufflé and pistachio ice cream… All the memory of a region oh so greedy.

At the Lyonnais, the escargot of snails, Swiss chard with parsley, salad of herbs and nuts. | Workshop May 98

32, rue Saint-Marc 75002 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 96 65 04. Menus at 28 euros at lunch and 45 euros (mâchon). Card from 55 to 65 euros. Closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday.

The Beauce

The Bénard family offers terrines, cupped oysters, pan-fried rib steak and baby potatoes or mashed potatoes. As for desserts, Breton shortbread, mascarpone cream. The son took over with talent.

43, rue Richer 75009 Paris. Tel.: 01 72 60 97 72. Lunch menu at 23 euros. Card from 45 to 60 euros. Closed Saturday noon and Sunday.

L’Epi d’Or

A Lyonnais Parisian-style cork invented by Élodie and Jean-François Piège (La Poule au Pot at Les Halles). Benches, wooden tables and an audience of eaters for the croque-madame, the mustarded beef tartare, the rice pudding with caramel and salted butter, the chocolate mousse. A divine surprise.

At the restaurant L’Épi d’Or, the croque-madame. |

25, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau 75001 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 36 38 12. Lunch menus at 29 or 39 euros. Card from 35 to 50 euros. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

With Burgundy Crus

The Dumant brothers have set up a collection of bistros rich in memorial dishes: chanterelle mushroom casserole, pike quenelles, chicken in yellow wine and morels, the Norwegian omelet. Who could resist such salty and sweet delicacies?

3, rue de Bachaumont 75002 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 33 48 24. Card from 45 to 65 euros. No closure.

At Rene’s

A stone’s throw from the banks of the Seine and La Tour d’Argent, this bistro once frequented by Jean-François Revel and Jack Lang offers a much-awaited classic repertoire through Royans ravioli au gratin, Lyonnaise quenelle with béchamel , the kidney in mustard sauce with homemade fries, and the floating island for the conclusion, with the classic Paris-Brest. The best clientele, those who live for the delight of the taste buds, come across cutlery and glasses in this historic and warm bistro.

At the Chez René restaurant, Royans ravioli au gratin. |

16, boulevard Saint-Germain 75005 Paris. Tel.: 01 43 54 30 23. Card from 45 to 55 euros. Closed Sunday and Monday.

The Silver Rotisserie

At the bottom of the famous Tower, the oldest restaurant in Paris (1582), here is the annex on the quay. The old-fashioned score by Sébastien Devos, world egg mayo champion, a marvel, is also the creator of spit-roasted poultry in the dining room, a rosé duck breast and anthology matchstick potatoes. Also, pike dumplings with mushroom duxelles, eggs with snow or chocolate profiteroles: a simple and good repertoire, friendly service, a view of the Seine, enough to be happy at the table. Oh the right address!

Mayo eggs from chef Sébastien Devos at La Rôtisserie d’Argent. | Silver tower

19, quai de la Tournelle 75005 Paris. Tel.: 01 43 54 17 47. Card from 46 to 65 euros. No closure.

Café M at the Hyatt Paris Madeleine

A restaurant to visit: on the ground floor of this chic hotel, a five-star hotel near the Madeleine, chef Sébastien Roux, Maître Cuisinier de France, concocts a market menu of a dozen dishes, no more: Parisian classics that appeal to the loyal clientele of the business district. It’s full at noon.

At Café M, chef Sébastien Roux. | Amelie Marzouk

All of the maestro’s preparations are tasty, well composed, such as the sea bream, rhubarb, hibiscus and basil carpaccio, langoustine ravioli, crunchy vegetables, tarragon bisque and sweet eye broth, green asparagus with Chartreuse , almonds, Granny Smith apple and wood sorrel as a prelude to main courses such as candied sea bass fillet, mini carrots, which should be accompanied by Chablis 2019 from the Domaine Henri (€15 a glass).

At Café M, langoustine ravioli. | Marine Brusson

Alongside the extremely vegetable dish, here is the beef tenderloin with vine shoots, chard sweets with Comté cheese, shallot caramel, pansy flowers, an excellent composition, as are the shells, truffles and Paris ham: a plate of childhood that pleases a lot. Also, the almost veal with ravioli.

At Café M, vegetal to the extreme. | Marine Brusson

This chef likes to work with the meats from his repertoire, which is unusual in Paris. You have to orient yourself towards the dish of the day described by the chef himself with taste and desire.

At Café M, green asparagus, chartreuse, almonds, Granny Smith apple, oxalys. | Marine Brusson

Thus, this short menu, well curated, whets the appetite just like the mature cheeses from the excellent Ferme d’Alexandre.

Four desserts by pastry chef Laurine, expert in strawberry vacherin, caramelized cream, verbena garden, lemon sorbet and modernized opera.

At Café M, strawberry Vacherin. | Marine Brusson

Yes, a pleasant address that can wow any gourmet, none of the all-purpose cuisine without appeal or gluttony.

At Café M, caramelized cream, verbena garden, lemon sorbet. | Marine Brusson

We drink Pouilly Fumé 2019 (15 euros a glass) or Margaux Segla 2016 (28 euros a glass).

The Michelin should inspect and taste the well-constant recital of this talented chef: after all, it is his mission.

The restaurant room Café M. | Hyatt Paris Madeleine Hotel

24, boulevard Malesherbes 75008 Paris. Tel.: 01 55 27 12 34. Main course at 39 euros, starter-main course at 62 euros, main course-dessert at 52 euros. Signature menu at 69 euros. Open only for lunch except Saturday and Sunday.

The Jersey Beef

The Menut family, which specializes in good catering for the general public, has set up a brasserie near the Porte des Ternes focused on meats, cuts of beef and Parmentier, so rare in Paris.

The room of the Le Boeuf Maillot restaurant. |

The meats of excellent origin –Ireland, Scotland, Salers– satisfy fans who are thrilled with the spider, the flank steak, the fillet, cooked to order and accompanied by dauphine potatoes and crunchy and tasty homemade fries.

The slate has a dozen proposals, carnivores are celebrating and the sauces come to wet and enrich these choice cuts.

At Le Bœuf Maillot restaurant, Salers beef fillet and fries. |

Among the starters, beef Maillot, warm beef cheek salad, ravigote-mayo, poached eggs, poached egg with morels, Greek lentil salad, leeks with mimosa vinaigrette, herring fillets, carpaccio of scallops…

At Le Bœuf Maillot restaurant, poached egg with morels. |

On the main course, roast pork tenderloin with mustard, sautéed hunter’s chicken, Florentine-style poached haddock, tuna tataki, sesame and coriander…

Who doesn’t dream of a pepper sauce, a tasty béarnaise, a tartare seasoned just right?

At Le Bœuf Maillot restaurant, warm beef cheek salad with ravigote-mayo. |

The establishment is full for both services and the hot chocolate vanilla ice cream is a pure treat. Fraternal service and decent addition.

At Le Bœuf Maillot restaurant, minute vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce. |

99, avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris. Tel.: 01 45 74 10 57. Lunch and dinner menu at 28 or 35 euros. Express lunch menu at 20 euros including the dish of the day or the butcher’s piece or the Big Maillot (Charolais hamburger). No closure.

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